Friday, September 23, 2011
Understanding With regards to Bonsai Wiring
Story By: lesley85
Bonsai Wiring and its Worth
The style as well as individuality of a bonsai tree will lie upon the creativity and design utilized on it. Bonsai wiring is a really popular technique in putting style in the dwarf plant. It gives shape as well as extraordinary beauty for the bonsai tree since it grows up.
Bonsai wiring is practiced by means of wrapping a wire all around the branches of the tree. This would employ force to the bonsai's branches that will actually encourage bending and also repositioning of its framework. The wire utilized should have required thickness that will put in good pressure in order to manipulate and also reposition the twigs effectually, as well as could still look clean. Bonsai wiring can be a remarkable help to shape your bonsai tree yet you need to be careful and well-informed enough to perform wiring mainly because it could potentially cause injury to the twigs.
Mandatory supplies for wiring a bonsai
There are 2 kinds of wires appropriate just for bonsai wiring. Anodized aluminum is suited to novices in plant growing since it is more pliable compared to copper wire as well as it could be repositioned quickly. It's not hard to adjust, and also it might cause much less injury to the twigs of the bonsai tree. Additionally , it is put to use by competent bonsai plant cultivators intended for framing thin-barked trees. Annealed copper wire is intended for advance or perhaps skilled bonsai plant propagators. It is very hard to make use of and shape. Yet annealed copper wire is best for hard twigs that are very hard to shape as they are much more stiff as well as resistant to twisting. This type of wire is 3 times tougher compared to anodized aluminum.
You can actually make use of raffia to safeguard the twigs of your bonsai plant from possible harms when using wires to shape your bonsai plant. You simply have to wrap it all around the twigs, and then you may proceed to wrap the wire all around the twigs.
Right period meant for bonsai wiring
You must think of the time of year of the year in bonsai wiring. For the period of spring or perhaps summer, bonsai twigs that are wired mature rapidly and also you are able to attain the desired form to your bonsai plant in just two to three weeks time. If you carry out bonsai wiring on fall or winter, it will take several months to reach the form you prefer to your bonsai tree. The type of bonsai tree species should also be considered since there are rapid growing trees which need considerably less time to attain the form you made. Fast growing trees normally include Elm and also Maple.
You ought to carry out routine assessments on your bonsai wiring to avoid ugly deformations on the twigs of your bonsai plant particularly whenever you utilized the wire in the time of peak growing period. It is best to perform bonsai wiring on fall or even wintertime to prevent enhancement of ugly scars on its branches.
The Correct Ways of Bonsai Wiring
You will need to have sufficient understanding of the right methods on how to carry out bonsai wiring. There are 2 wiring methods, that are double wiring and single wiring which could be very helpful to you while you try to shape your bonsai tree. You've got to use a wire that is about 1/3 thick of the bonsai twig where you will wrap the wire.
Double wiring is applied for wiring two branches with the same thickness and also if they're close to each other. You will only make use of one piece of wire in undertaking double wiring. Very first thing you'll need to undertake is to select two branches which are in close proximity to each other with a similar thickness. Before wiring both branches, you ought to begin wiring at the trunk at least once to secure the wiring. Subsequently, slice an estimated length of the wire that could be being used in wiring the trunk and twigs of the bonsai. Start the wiring over the trunk and then wire the first branch from the bottom of the branch to the tip. You should keep a common interval between the wiring spaces and make sure that the angle of inclination is 45°. This can allow the tree to evolve while keeping its new structure. And then, wire the second branch with the same tips. Accomplish bending of twigs after you have completed all wrapping of wires to the branches of the bonsai. If you wish to curve downward a branch, it is best to see to it that the wire is anchored below, as well as if you wish to flex the twig upwards then you really should have secured the wire at the upper part. After you've executed double wiring to all branches which have pairs, you'll be able to now carry out single wiring to the remaining single branches.
Single wiring is pertinent for wiring single branches. Initially, you have to trim the approximated length of the wire. Subsequently, secure the wire at least 2 times to the trunk with an angle of 45 degrees and start out wiring the single twig. When several wires are wrapped around the same part of the trunk, you should guarantee that it appears tidy. Then, carry on wiring the remaining single twigs of the bonsai tree.
About the Author
Preston Blackmore is an organic gardening and farming enthusiast.
Article Directory Source: http://www.articlerich.com/profile/lesley85/141577
Monday, May 9, 2011
3 Popular Flowering Bonsai
Story By: Ruth Morgan
Many people admire flowering bonsai. The combination of the brilliant colours of the flowers and the miniature size of the tree create a spectacular flowering bonsai.
There are lots of species of flowering bonsai. They include Satsuki Azalea, Cotoneaster, Winter Jasmine, Crab Apple, Flowering Cherry, White and Red Hawthorn, Japanese Flowering Apricot, Wisteria, Serissa, Firethorn, Deciduous Holly, Quince and Pomegranate. Some are suitable for the outdoors whilst others can be kept indoors. They all produce different displays and are very much valued as bonsai. Details about 3 of the most popular are given below.
1. Satsuki Azalea (Rhododendron indium) produces magnificent displays of flowers in late spring / early summer. This explains the origin of the satsuki name (meaning fifth moon in Japanese - corresponding to the time of flowering in June). It is possible for the same tree to produce flowers with different colours and different markings.
These colourful azaleas have been grown by the Japanese for over 300 years. A tip for buying Satsuki Azaleas is to do so during the flowering season when you can see the splendour of the colours. Azaleas are best kept in semi-shade outdoors. During the winter they should be protected from wind and frost. It is important to use lime-free soil and to remove dead flowers quickly.
2. Another favourite flowering bonsai is Crab Apple (Malus species). Many varieties are available which produce wonderful fragrant flowers of different colours in spring. There is a range of colours - from cerise to pink to cream to white. The small autumnal fruits also come in different colours. Prolific flowering is encouraged by pruning in late summer. Crab Apples should be repotted every year in early spring before the start of growth.
Common varieties include Halls Crab Apple, Common Crab Apple and Nagasaki Crab Apple. Crab Apples should be kept in full sun. Frost is not a problem, unless the bonsai are small. They need plenty of water, especially when the fruit is being formed. Because of this a deeper than normal pot should be used for Crab Apple. The informal style is popular - with single and multi-trunk forms.
3. The third flowering bonsai is pomegranate (Punica granatum). It is native to the Mediterranean and China. The geographical spread of this tree was greatly helped by the Romans! It is an ideal bonsai as it has a twisted trunk, gnarled bark, colourful funnel shaped flowers and yellow / red fruits. In addition, the leaves turn yellow in autumn. This results in a wonderful bonsai tree, often seen as an informal upright style.
It should be placed in full sun during the growing season - this can be either indoors or outdoors. But in very hot weather trees that are kept indoors should have their roots protected from the sun. If winter temperatures are kept above 17 degrees Centigrade (63 degrees Fahrenheit) the pomegranate will remain evergreen. It should not be exposed to temperatures below 5 degrees Centigrade (41 degrees Fahrenheit) but brought indoors to a well lit cool position.
All of these trees are relatively easy to grow and are therefore suitable for newcomers to bonsai. Experiment and enjoy!
About the Author
Ruth Morgan is the author of Beautiful Bonsai Secrets - a step-by-step guide to growing and developing beautiful bonsai trees. To claim more free information about bonsai go to http://beautifulbonsaisecrets.com today.
Article Directory Source: http://www.articlerich.com/profile/Ruth-Morgan/73555
Many people admire flowering bonsai. The combination of the brilliant colours of the flowers and the miniature size of the tree create a spectacular flowering bonsai.
There are lots of species of flowering bonsai. They include Satsuki Azalea, Cotoneaster, Winter Jasmine, Crab Apple, Flowering Cherry, White and Red Hawthorn, Japanese Flowering Apricot, Wisteria, Serissa, Firethorn, Deciduous Holly, Quince and Pomegranate. Some are suitable for the outdoors whilst others can be kept indoors. They all produce different displays and are very much valued as bonsai. Details about 3 of the most popular are given below.
1. Satsuki Azalea (Rhododendron indium) produces magnificent displays of flowers in late spring / early summer. This explains the origin of the satsuki name (meaning fifth moon in Japanese - corresponding to the time of flowering in June). It is possible for the same tree to produce flowers with different colours and different markings.
These colourful azaleas have been grown by the Japanese for over 300 years. A tip for buying Satsuki Azaleas is to do so during the flowering season when you can see the splendour of the colours. Azaleas are best kept in semi-shade outdoors. During the winter they should be protected from wind and frost. It is important to use lime-free soil and to remove dead flowers quickly.
2. Another favourite flowering bonsai is Crab Apple (Malus species). Many varieties are available which produce wonderful fragrant flowers of different colours in spring. There is a range of colours - from cerise to pink to cream to white. The small autumnal fruits also come in different colours. Prolific flowering is encouraged by pruning in late summer. Crab Apples should be repotted every year in early spring before the start of growth.
Common varieties include Halls Crab Apple, Common Crab Apple and Nagasaki Crab Apple. Crab Apples should be kept in full sun. Frost is not a problem, unless the bonsai are small. They need plenty of water, especially when the fruit is being formed. Because of this a deeper than normal pot should be used for Crab Apple. The informal style is popular - with single and multi-trunk forms.
3. The third flowering bonsai is pomegranate (Punica granatum). It is native to the Mediterranean and China. The geographical spread of this tree was greatly helped by the Romans! It is an ideal bonsai as it has a twisted trunk, gnarled bark, colourful funnel shaped flowers and yellow / red fruits. In addition, the leaves turn yellow in autumn. This results in a wonderful bonsai tree, often seen as an informal upright style.
It should be placed in full sun during the growing season - this can be either indoors or outdoors. But in very hot weather trees that are kept indoors should have their roots protected from the sun. If winter temperatures are kept above 17 degrees Centigrade (63 degrees Fahrenheit) the pomegranate will remain evergreen. It should not be exposed to temperatures below 5 degrees Centigrade (41 degrees Fahrenheit) but brought indoors to a well lit cool position.
All of these trees are relatively easy to grow and are therefore suitable for newcomers to bonsai. Experiment and enjoy!
About the Author
Ruth Morgan is the author of Beautiful Bonsai Secrets - a step-by-step guide to growing and developing beautiful bonsai trees. To claim more free information about bonsai go to http://beautifulbonsaisecrets.com today.
Article Directory Source: http://www.articlerich.com/profile/Ruth-Morgan/73555
Friday, January 28, 2011
How To Re-Pot Your Bonsai Tree
By: Andrew Kozlowski
One of the most important elements of bonsai care is re-potting. Because a bonsai tree grows in a container, its root system, which grows right along with the plant, will eventually outgrow the pot. When this happens, the root system of the bonsai fills the container, the tree becomes “pot-bound,” and the feeder roots that absorb water and nutrients then have no room to grow.
To keep your bonsai healthy, you’ll need to re-pot with fresh soil. And while re-potting, you’ll have a chance to trim the root ball to allow it to become denser. A smaller but denser root ball is better for the tree because the emerging fine feeder roots act more efficiently than larger roots.
How do you know when it’s time to re-pot? You will know your tree is pot-bound if roots are circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes at the container’s base, and water is taking a long time to filter into the soil. Depending on the species, the size of the container, and the age of the tree, most bonsai need to be re-potted every two-to-five years. Faster growing and younger trees require re-potting more frequently than older bonsai.
The best time to re-pot most bonsai trees is at the end of the plant’s dormant period in the early spring. The re-potting process will stress the tree less at this time as it is only providing minimal nutrients to its leaves. Re-potting in early spring will also all the roots time to repair themselves by the time the tree starts growing again.
The following are tips on how to re-pot your bonsai:
Pick out a new container for your bonsai. It should be slightly larger than the original pot and of a shape and color that complement the growing tree.
Tilt your bonsai tree’s current pot to one side and tap the bottom to loosen the soil so you can lift out the plant. If it’s stuck, use a knife to cut away any caked soil. Do not tug on the plant!
Gently shake the tree to get rid of loose soil, and then using a root hook, root rake, knitting needles, or chopsticks, untangle the roots.
Using a sharp, clean pair of gardening scissors, trim the thickest, longest brown roots. (You can buy special bonsai root-pruning scissors.) Also remove any rotten or dried-out roots. Then trim the thinner roots that hang below the depth of the pot.
Cover the drainage holes of the new pot with a layer of plastic mesh attached with copper wire, and cover with a layer of grit or gravel for the best drainage.
Cover the gravel with a light base of nutrient-rich potting soil.
Place the tree near the center of the pot and fill the container with more soil, up to the base of the trunk. Pat the soil down so there are no air pockets between the roots.
Water gently but thoroughly, but do not add fertilizer for at least two weeks after re-potting because it can burn the roots. Make sure the re-potted tree is not exposed to direct sunlight or freezing temperatures.
About The Author
Andrew Kozlowski is a naturalist, amateur botanist, and author of articles and books on topics ranging from plant care and gardening to home downsizing. For more than 20 years Andrew has managed environmental programs in the U.S., Europe, Africa, and Latin America. He resides in San Francisco.
The author invites you to visit: http://www.bonsaitreeanswers.com
One of the most important elements of bonsai care is re-potting. Because a bonsai tree grows in a container, its root system, which grows right along with the plant, will eventually outgrow the pot. When this happens, the root system of the bonsai fills the container, the tree becomes “pot-bound,” and the feeder roots that absorb water and nutrients then have no room to grow.
To keep your bonsai healthy, you’ll need to re-pot with fresh soil. And while re-potting, you’ll have a chance to trim the root ball to allow it to become denser. A smaller but denser root ball is better for the tree because the emerging fine feeder roots act more efficiently than larger roots.
How do you know when it’s time to re-pot? You will know your tree is pot-bound if roots are circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes at the container’s base, and water is taking a long time to filter into the soil. Depending on the species, the size of the container, and the age of the tree, most bonsai need to be re-potted every two-to-five years. Faster growing and younger trees require re-potting more frequently than older bonsai.
The best time to re-pot most bonsai trees is at the end of the plant’s dormant period in the early spring. The re-potting process will stress the tree less at this time as it is only providing minimal nutrients to its leaves. Re-potting in early spring will also all the roots time to repair themselves by the time the tree starts growing again.
The following are tips on how to re-pot your bonsai:
Pick out a new container for your bonsai. It should be slightly larger than the original pot and of a shape and color that complement the growing tree.
Tilt your bonsai tree’s current pot to one side and tap the bottom to loosen the soil so you can lift out the plant. If it’s stuck, use a knife to cut away any caked soil. Do not tug on the plant!
Gently shake the tree to get rid of loose soil, and then using a root hook, root rake, knitting needles, or chopsticks, untangle the roots.
Using a sharp, clean pair of gardening scissors, trim the thickest, longest brown roots. (You can buy special bonsai root-pruning scissors.) Also remove any rotten or dried-out roots. Then trim the thinner roots that hang below the depth of the pot.
Cover the drainage holes of the new pot with a layer of plastic mesh attached with copper wire, and cover with a layer of grit or gravel for the best drainage.
Cover the gravel with a light base of nutrient-rich potting soil.
Place the tree near the center of the pot and fill the container with more soil, up to the base of the trunk. Pat the soil down so there are no air pockets between the roots.
Water gently but thoroughly, but do not add fertilizer for at least two weeks after re-potting because it can burn the roots. Make sure the re-potted tree is not exposed to direct sunlight or freezing temperatures.
About The Author
Andrew Kozlowski is a naturalist, amateur botanist, and author of articles and books on topics ranging from plant care and gardening to home downsizing. For more than 20 years Andrew has managed environmental programs in the U.S., Europe, Africa, and Latin America. He resides in San Francisco.
The author invites you to visit: http://www.bonsaitreeanswers.com
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